Bulletin of
Vitebsk State
Technological
University

Abstract

The work is devoted to the technology of manufacturing textile souvenir products based on Slutsk belts, which has no analogues in world practice, including the design of the structure of a double-sided three-weft tapestry, the development of model weaves, technical drawing, programming the operation of a jacquard machine, shuttle boxes, and a product regulator. The purpose of the work is to create a technology for obtaining new types of fabrics on a unique weaving loom, the design of which is intended to reproduce copies of Slutsk belts. The relevance of the work is reflected in the need to study, preserve and develop unique weaving techniques that existed in Belarus, and their adaptation to modern production. The structure of the designed product is as follows: it is a three-weft tapestry, which has different patterns on the outer sides, with one side being one-color, where the pattern is visible exclusively due to the relief, and the second side is twocolor, with a pattern formed by two other wefts. The presence of three wefts in the structure of the double-sided tapestry and the exclusion of their transition from one side to the other removes restrictions on the nature of the patterns on the outer sides, thereby diversifying the artistic and coloristic design and quality of the woven product. The fabric sketches were drawn by hand and digitized in Adobe Photoshop, where the technical drawing was also developed.

Model weaves were developed for the six color effects of the technical drawing, each of which corresponds to the various mutual arrangements of the elements of the patterns of the outer sides of the tapestry available in the product ("contourcontour", "contour-pattern", "pattern-contour", "pattern-pattern", "background-contour", "background-pattern"). The linear pattern on the side of the tapestry formed by one type of weft is enhanced by the presence of relief, which is created by using weaves with different lengths of weft overlap in the contour and on the area of the pattern. The warps and wefts of the product use threads of different raw material composition and linear density: wefts – polyester thread with a linear density of 16.6 tex; spreading warp – polyester textured thread with a linear density of 25 tex; pressing warp – natural silk thread with a linear density of 10 tex.

The technology is implemented on a modern six-shuttle weaving machine from Mageba (Germany), equipped with a Stäubli jacquard machine, at the Slutsk Belts factory, which has led to the solution of the urgent production problem of creating popular souvenir products of a new type based on Belarusian national symbols.

Technology for producing double-sided fabrics based on the structure of a three-weft tapestry