Bulletin of
Vitebsk State
Technological
University

Abstract

Orsha Flax Processing Plant produces a wide range of linen and semi-linen fabrics for various purposes, as well as piece products, among which blankets, bedspreads and plaids are in growing demand. They are usually made from fabrics of complex structure, using floral or geometric jacquard patterns, the elements of which are obtained through the use of various weaves on the front side of the fabric. The study is aimed at determining the possibility of using different or several methods of connecting layers in the elements of the same fabric in order to obtain different effects on its surface, provided that the isotropy of its physical-mechanical properties is preserved.

The aim of the study is to determine the effect of the method of joining layers in two-layer fabrics on their physical and mechanical properties. For this purpose, the company has developed two-layer fabrics for furniture and decorative applications, with the front and back layers equally formed by warp and weft threads. Twill 2/2 was used as the interlacing of the upper and lower layers. The fabrics are produced sequentially, on the same two-layer Picanol loom with a Bonas jacquard machine with the same filling parameters.

Dyed cotonine-containing linen yarn with a linear density of 50 tex is used in the warp and weft, the warp and weft threads of the upper and lower layers differ from each other only in color, but are identical for each of the methods of connecting the layers. Since the fabrics are double-sided, the side formed by the dark warp and the dark weft is defined as the front. To reduce the effect of finishing parameters on the finished fabric, all samples were enzymatically washed and then dried flat in one batch. This finishing method was chosen as the most common for the production of finished piece products for furniture and decorative applications.

Four methods of connecting layers are defined: along the contour of the pattern, "top-down", "bottom-up" and combined. Filling drawings of these weaves are constructed, their coefficient of connectivity is determined. Testing of materials according to physical and mechanical properties was carried out in accordance with standard methods, resulting in the values of breaking load, tensile elongation, abrasion resistance, fabric thickness, breathability and shrinkage during the final finishing being determined.

The results of the analysis of experimental data showed that the values of all properties of fabrics produced by interlacing with different methods of joining layers differ from each other, and using the Kraskel-Wallis criterion it was proved that these differences are statistically significant. Therefore, the use of different methods of joining layers in the drawing of one fabric (or one piece) product leads to a decrease in the uniformity of properties in width and length.

The effect of the method of joining layers in two-layer fabrics on their physical and mechanical properties